We get asked all the time: “Hey Guitar Hunter, can you help me identify how old my vintage Gibson guitar (or bass) is?”
So, instead of answering all of you individually, we thought it was best to make a short and direct guide to How to date your vintage Gibson guitar and bass. This way, you also learn a bit of Gibson history and, more importantly, about the history of your own Gibson instrument.
We at Guitar Hunter only specialize in vintage Gibson guitars and basses built before the 1980s. We are proud to say that we have had some of the most rare Gibson guitars in our inventory over the years, including an original all-gold 1952 Les Paul Goldtop, an original 1957 Les Paul Custom Mickey Baker, and multiple original Bursts from 1958, 1959, and 1960. We have had over 150 vintage Gibson guitars and basses through our shop over the years, and we’re proud to sell some of the best examples out there.
Note! This guide only covers Gibson instruments made before 1980, since these are the instruments we work with and have expertise with.
The first thing to note when dating a vintage Gibson guitar or bass is that you cannot look at one indicator isolated. You need to look at all the indicators we list in this guide and afterward make an informed conclusion. It is always the last date on the instrument that indicates when it left the factory. That is very important to remember, and it is something we see a lot of people forget. Therefore, you need to look at the full picture to understand when your Gibson was built.
These are the indicators that we will go through in this guide:
How to determine which period your Gibson was built in based on the logo
One of the most reliable ways to estimate the production period of a vintage Gibson acoustic or archtop guitar is by examining the logo on the headstock.
This paragraph is mostly only relevant if you’re determining the age of a vintage Gibson Acoustic or Gibson Archtop.
Here is an example of a 1944 Gibson J-45 in Sunburst, featuring a “script” logo and the “ONLY A GIBSON IS GOOD ENOUGH” banner.

1902 to late 1920’s
The earliest Gibson logos appeared in 1902, featuring “The Gibson” inlaid in a slanted, cursive script. The script was hand-cut and inlaid in pearl, giving it a highly personalized, almost handwritten feel. Some early examples from 1903 to 1907 lack the slant and, in rare cases, didn’t even feature a logo at all. During this period, the company experimented with different inlay styles, and some of the earliest models before 1902 used a star or crescent shape instead of the logo. This marks the beginning of Gibson’s brand identity, where the headstock logo played a key role in establishing recognition.
Late 1920’s to 1933
By the late 1920s, Gibson began to standardize the script, and the slanted logo was replaced with a straight, upright cursive design, with the logo now reading simply “The Gibson”.
Around this time, Gibson started to remove “The” from the logo on certain models, especially flattop guitars.
The 1920s also marked the beginning of Gibson’s move into mass production of acoustic guitars and archtops.
Around 1931, Gibson applied their silver logos using a silkscreen process. This printing method sometimes produced slight variations in lettering, giving the logos a hand-painted appearance. While they may look handwritten, these logos are authentically printed, reflecting the unique charm of vintage Gibson instruments.

Example of an exceptionally clean 1931 Gibson L-0 in Natural finish with silver “The Gibson” logo.
1933 to 1947
By 1933, Gibson officially dropped “The” from the headstock logo altogether.
The logo now simply read “Gibson” in a cursive script. The original thin script was gradually replaced by a thicker font, beginning with high-end models in the mid-1930s. By the late ’30s, the thicker script had become the standard across all Gibson guitars.
During this period, between 1943 and 1947, Gibson introduced the banner logo. It was a thicker, golden script version of the word ‘Gibson’ with an actual banner across the headstock reading “Only a Gibson Is Good Enough.”
The banner logo was used to emphasize the quality of Gibson instruments and to cement the company’s reputation during a time of wartime shortages and economic strain.
This logo appeared on some of the most iconic models of the era, such as the LG-2, J-45, SJ, and select L-50s.

Example of an original 1934 Gibson L-00-Small Sunburst with script logo.

Example of one of the earliest Gibson Banner J-45 that left the Kalamazoo factory in 1942.
1947 to Present
After World War II, in 1947, Gibson adopted the block logo, a more modern, bold design that would go on to define the look of the company for decades to come. The block logo, with its clean, straightforward font, remained the cornerstone of Gibson’s branding and continues to appear on virtually all of their guitars today.
The block logo remained unchanged until the 1960s, when slight modifications were made to the connections between letters, particularly in the mid-’60s. These subtle changes were a reflection of the era’s desire for sharper, more stylized fonts and logos. Between 1968 and 1972, Gibson stopped dotting the “i” in Gibson on certain models. This was part of a series of small design experiments that reflected the changing tastes of guitarists during the late ’60s and early ’70s. By 1972, most models featured the dot again, completing the logo’s return to its classic form.
From 1981 onward, the block logo was firmly re-established as the brand’s permanent logo, with only minor tweaks to letter spacing and the connection of the “G” and “i”. This consistency in design helped solidify Gibson’s identity as one of the most iconic guitar manufacturers in the world. Even today, the block logo is instantly recognizable and synonymous with high-end craftsmanship, marking the company’s successful evolution from a regional builder to a global leader in musical instrument production.

Example of a 1961 Gibson Les Paul (SG) Standard – Cherry featuring the block logo in its classic variation.

Example of a 1956 Gibson Les Paul Junior – Sunburst featuring the block logo finished in gold.

Example of a 1952 Gibson Les Paul Standard – Goldtop (All Gold) featuring the block logo where the “G” and the dot over the “i” are connected.

Example of a 1969 Gibson Les Paul Standard – Goldtop featuring the block logo without a dotted “i”.
How to date a vintage Gibson guitar using Factory Order Numbers (FON)
One of the most precise ways to determine the age of a vintage Gibson guitar is by using the Factory Order Number (FON), which is a unique identifier that Gibson used to track each guitar through its manufacturing process. Understanding how to decode this number can give you an exact or close estimate of when your Gibson was built. This method is especially valuable when the guitar lacks other clear indicators of age, like the headstock logo, or if you are dealing with a more obscure model.
What is a Factory Order Number (FON)?
A Factory Order Number (FON) is a unique identifier that Gibson placed on most guitars produced from the 1930s to the 1970s.
This number, stamped on the guitar’s inner label or on the body (typically inside the soundhole for acoustics and in the control cavity for electrics), provides key information about the year and sometimes even the month of production.
The FON is distinct from the serial number, although it is often confused with it. While the serial number is usually the most publicized identifier, the FON is arguably the more direct tool for dating older Gibson guitars.
The Factory Order Number is a combination of letters and numbers, and it varies depending on the year and production methods.
Over the decades, Gibson used different formats for the FON, making it necessary to understand how the numbers changed over time to decode them correctly.

Example of a 1960 Gibson ES-330 TDN – Blonde with factory order number ‘R5322 14’ where the prefix ‘R’ indicates 1960.
How to read a Gibson Factory Order Number
The format of Gibson’s Factory Order Numbers changed over the years, but they typically include a series of digits and sometimes letters. Here’s how you can break down these numbers based on when your guitar was made:
1902 – 1945: FON
Year | FON or Letter Code |
---|---|
1902 - 1916 | 1 to 3650 |
1917 - 1923 | 11000 - 12000 |
1924 - 1925 | 11000A - 11250A |
1925 - 1931 | 8000 - 9999 |
1931 - 1933 | 1 - 890 |
1934 | 1 - 1500 |
1935 | 1A - 1520A |
1936 | 1B - 1100B |
1937 | 1C - 1400C |
1938 | 1D - 1000D |
1939 | 1E - 980E |
1940 - 1945 | 1 - 7900 (Some w. Suffix, others without) |
To complicate matters further, sometimes a second letter was used from 1938 to 1941, indicating the brand (G for Gibson, K for Kalamazoo, W for Recording King), and sometimes even a third letter was used, indicating “Electric” (the letter E). The year is indicated by the first letter in any series of letters for these years.
1935 – 1942: FON Prefixes
Year | FON or Letter Code |
---|---|
1935 | A |
1936 | B |
1937 | C |
1938 | D, DA |
1939 | EX (X = another letter) |
1940 | F, FA |
1941 | E (No extra letter) |
1941 | G |
1942 | H |
1942 – 1951 FON
Year | FON or Letter Code |
---|---|
1942 | 907, 910, 923, 2004, 2005, 7000s (all with banner logo) |
1943 | 9xx to 22xx |
1944 | 22xx to 29xx (some without FONS) |
1945 | 1xx to 10xx (many without FONS) |
1947 | 700s to 1000s |
1948 | 1100s to 3700s (move from script to block logo) |
1949 | 2000s |
1950 | 3000s to 5000s |
1951 | 6000s to 9000s |
1952 – 1961 FON Letter Prefixes
Year | FON Letter Prefix |
---|---|
1952 | Z |
1953 | Y |
1954 | X |
1955 | W |
1956 | V |
1957 | U |
1958 | T |
1959 | S |
1960 | R |
1961 | Q |
How to read the serial number if it’s placed on the back of the headstock
Serial numbers placed on the back of the headstock can be put into two categories: With or without a “Made In USA” mark alongside the serial number.
1953 – 1970: Without “Made In USA” mark
1953 – 1961: Ink Stamp – 5 or 6 digits
The ink stamp serial number, typically consisting of 5 or 6 digits, is most commonly found on solid-body electric guitar models such as the Les Paul, Explorer, Flying V, and double-neck guitars.
This format is among the easiest to interpret, as the first digit of the serial number corresponds to the last digit of the year of manufacture (e.g., a “6” would indicate 1956).
However, there are several exceptions to this system. Gibson initially used a space between the prefix and the consecutive number, but this practice ended once production numbers for a given year surpassed 999.
Between 1957 and 1961, some Gibsons featured 6-digit serial numbers, a shift likely driven by the growing production volume.
It’s also important to note that some models, such as the 1952 Les Paul Goldtop and 1953 Les Paul Custom, did not have serial numbers at all.
For these models, identifying the year and authenticity may rely on other distinguishing characteristics like the finish, hardware, and other manufacturing details.

Example of a 1958 Gibson Les Paul Junior – TV Model with a black ink stamp serial number.
Serial Number | Year |
---|---|
3 XXXX | 1953 |
4 XXXX | 1954 |
5 XXXX | 1955 |
6 XXXX | 1956 |
7 (x)XXXX | 1957 |
8 (x)XXXX | 1958 |
9 (x)XXXX | 1959 |
0 (x)XXXX | 1960 |
1 (x)XXXX | 1961 |

Example of a 1958 Gibson Les Paul Junior – Sunburst with an yellow ink stamp serial number.
1961 – 1964: Die Stamp – 3-5 Digits
The die stamp serial number, typically consisting of 3 to 5 digits, is commonly found on Gibson guitars from 1961 up until 1964.
The system was somewhat inconsistent but generally followed a rough numerical sequence, which you can see in this chart.
These die-stamped numbers were used alongside or instead of other identification methods like Factory Order Numbers (FONs). The stamping process could be uneven due to manual application.
Serial Number Range | Year |
---|---|
0100 to 42440 | 1961 |
42441 to 61180 | 1962 |
61450 to 64222 | 1963 |
64240 to 71040 | 1964 |
71041 to 96600 | 1962, 1963 or 1964 |
96601 to 99999 | 1963 |
1963 – 1969: Die Stamp – 6 Digits
The 6-digit die stamp serial number without the “Made In USA” mark on the back of the headstock is commonly found on Gibson guitars between 1963 and 1969.
This serial number style is among the most notoriously difficult to decode, as Gibson frequently reused serial numbers, making it challenging to determine the exact year of manufacture based on the number alone.
It is therefore important to look at other key features of your Gibson, such as the style of logo and placement, pot codes, etc., before determining the manufacturing year.

Example of a 1963 Gibson Hummingbird – Cherry Sunburst with die stamp serial number.
Serial Number Range | Years Manufactured |
---|---|
000001 - 099999 | 1967 |
100000 - 106099 | 1963, 1967 |
106100 - 106899 | 1963 |
109000 - 109999 | 1963, 1967 |
110000 - 111549 | 1963 |
111550 - 115799 | 1963, 1967 |
115800 - 118299 | 1963 |
118300 - 120999 | 1963, 1967 |
121000 - 139999 | 1963 |
140000 - 140100 | 1963, 1967 |
140101 - 144304 | 1963 |
144305 - 144380 | 1964 |
144381 - 149864 | 1963 |
149865 - 149891 | 1964 |
149892 - 152989 | 1963 |
152990 - 174222 | 1964 |
174223 - 176643 | 1964, 1965 |
176644 - 250335 | 1964 |
250336 - 305983 | 1965 |
306000 - 310999 | 1965, 1967 |
311000 - 320149 | 1965 |
320150 - 320699 | 1967 |
320700 - 329179 | 1965 |
329180 - 330199 | 1965, 1967 |
330200 - 332240 | 1965, 1967, 1968 |
332241 - 348092 | 1965 |
348093 - 349100 | 1966 |
349121 - 368638 | 1965 |
368640 - 369890 | 1966 |
370000 - 370999 | 1967 |
380000 - 385309 | 1966 |
390000 - 390998 | 1967 |
400001 - 406666 | 1966 |
406667 - 409670 | 1966, 1967, 1968 |
409671 - 410900 | 1966 |
410901 - 419999 | Not Found? |
420000 - 429193 | 1966 |
500000 - 500999 | 1965, 1966, 1968, 1969 |
501009 - 501600 | 1965 |
501601 - 501702 | 1968 |
501703 - 502706 | 1965, 1968 |
503010 - 503109 | 1968 |
503405 - 520955 | 1965, 1968 |
520956 - 530056 | 1968 |
530061 - 530850 | 1966, 1968, 1969 |
530851 - 530993 | 1968, 1969 |
530994 - 539999 | 1969 |
540000 - 540795 | 1966, 1969 |
540796 - 545009 | 1969 |
555000 - 557999 | 1966 |
558000 - 567400 | 1969 |
570087 - 570643 | 1966 |
570645 - 570755 | 1966, 1967 |
570857 - 570964 | 1966 |
580000 - 580080 | 1969 |
580086 - 580999 | 1966, 1967, 1969 |
600000 - 600998 | 1966, 1967, 1968 |
600000 - 606090 | 1969 |
700000 - 700799 | 1966, 1967, 1969 |
750000 - 750999 | 1967, 1968, 1969 |
800000 - 800999 | 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969 |
801000 - 812838 | 1966, 1969 |
812900 - 819999 | 1969 |
820000 - 820087 | 1966, 1969 |
820088 - 823830 | 1966 |
824000 - 824999 | 1969 |
828002 - 847488 | 1966, 1969 |
847499 - 858999 | 1966, 1969 |
859001 - 895038 | 1967 |
895039 - 896999 | 1968 |
897000 - 898999 | 1967, 1969 |
899000 - 899999 | 1968 |
900000 - 909999 | 1970 |
910000 - 999999 | 1968 |
1970 – 1975: Die Stamp – 6 digits – with “Made In USA” Mark
By late 1969, Gibson was acquired by Norlin Corporation, marking the beginning of a new era that brought noticeable changes to the company’s guitar production. These changes affected not only the quality and aesthetics of the instruments but also production volume. Despite the transition, Gibson continued using its confusing 6 digit die stamp serial number system, which led to further inconsistencies—including the reuse of 1960s serial numbers on guitars produced in the 1970s.
To help distinguish between the two decades, Gibson introduced some key identifiers. One of the most notable was the addition of a “Made in USA” stamp beneath the serial number starting in 1970, making it easier to identify 1970s models.
Another important change introduced in late 1969 was the addition of the neck volute — a small triangular reinforcement where the neck meets the headstock. This was intended to reduce the risk of headstock breaks, a common issue with Gibson guitars due to their angled headstock design.

1972 Gibson ES-335 TD – Walnut with a serial number on the back of the headstock with a “Made in USA” Stamp.
Serial Number | Year |
---|---|
000000 | 1973 |
100000 | 1970 - 1975 |
200000 | 1973 - 1975 |
300000 | 1974 - 1975 |
400000 | 1974 - 1975 |
500000 | 1974 - 1975 |
600000 | 1970 - 1972 & 1974 - 1975 |
700000 | 1970 - 1972 |
800000 | 1973 - 1975 |
900000 | 1970 - 1972 |
1975 – 1977: Die Stamp – 6 digits + 2 digit prefix – with “Made In USA” Mark
During this period, Gibson applied 8-digit serial numbers printed in gold on a clear decal, which were placed on the back of the headstock rather than stamped into the wood as in other years.
Here is an example of a 1977 Gibson ES-335 TD – Tobacco Sunburst with a ’06’ prefix and a ‘Made in USA’ mark.
Serial Number | Year |
---|---|
99XXXXXX | 1975 |
00XXXXXX | 1976 |
06XXXXXX | 1977 |

1977 – Present: Die Stamp – 8 Digit – with “Made In USA” Mark
Starting in 1977, Gibson introduced a new serial number system that is still in use today, with only slight variations introduced over the years.
The 1st and 5th digit indicates the last two digit of the year the guitar was made in (eg. 7XXX8XXX indicating 78.
The 3 digits in between the year of the production indicates the day of the year it was made (eg. X123XXXX indicating the 123rd day of the year.
The last 3 digits indicates both which factory the guitar was made at (If it’s lower than 500 = Kalamazoo, If it’s higher than 500 = Nashville) and the batch number made that day.
How to read the serial number if it’s placed inside the sound hole
1910 – 1946: Serial Numbers located on a white label
Serial Number Range | Year |
---|---|
1 - 1500 | 1903 |
1501 - 2500 | 1904 |
2501 - 3500 | 1905 |
3501 - 5500 | 1906 |
5501 - 8300 | 1907 |
8301 - 9700 | 1908 |
9701 - 10100 | 1909 |
10101 - 10600 | 1910 |
10601 - 10850 | 1911 |
10851 - 13350 | 1912 |
13351 - 16100 | 1913 |
16101 - 20150 | 1914 |
20151 - 25150 | 1915 |
25151 - 32000 | 1916 |
32001 - 39500 | 1917 |
39501 - 47900 | 1918 |
47901 - 53800 | 1919 |
53801 - 63650 | 1920 |
63651 - 69300 | 1921 |
69301 - 71400 | 1922 |
71401 - 74900 | 1923 |
74901 - 81200 | 1924 |
81201 - 82700 | 1925 |
82701 - 83600 | 1926 |
83601 - 85400 | 1927 |
85401 - 87300 | 1928 |
87301 - 89750 | 1929 |
89751 - 90200 | 1930 |
90201 - 90450 | 1931 |
90451 - 90700 | 1932 |
90701 - 91400 | 1933 |
91401 - 92300 | 1934 |
92301 - 92800 | 1935 |
92801 - 94100 | 1936 |
94101 - 95200 | 1937 |
95201 - 95750 | 1938 |
95751 - 96050 | 1939 |
96051 - 96600 | 1940 |
96601 - 97400 | 1941 |
97401 - 97700 | 1942 |
97701 - 97850 | 1943 |
97851 - 98250 | 1944 |
98251 - 98650 | 1945 |
98651 - 99300 | 1946 |
99301 - 99999 | 1947 |
1947- 1955: Serial Numbers located on a white label with “A” prefix
Gibson restarted the serial number sequence in 1947 with an addition of an “A” prefix.
Serial Number | Year |
---|---|
A-100 - A-1304 | 1947 |
A-1305 - A-2665 | 1948 |
A-2666 - A-4413 | 1949 |
A-4414 - A-6597 | 1950 |
A-6598 - A-9419 | 1951 |
A-9420 - A-12462 | 1952 |
A-12463 - A-16101 | 1953 |
A-16102 - A-18667 | 1954 |
A-18668 - A-20000 | 1955 |
1955 – 1961: Serial Numbers located on a orange label with “A” prefix
Year | FON Letter Prefix |
---|---|
1952 | Z |
1953 | Y |
1954 | X |
1955 | W |
1956 | V |
1957 | U |
1958 | T |
1959 | S |
1960 | R |
1961 | Q |

Example of a 1959 Gibson ES-335 TD – Sunburst with the serial number placed inside the “F” hole.
Using the potentiometer codes to date your vintage Gibson guitar
The next step when dating your vintage Gibson guitar is to date when the potentiometers were produced. In this regard, it is very important to notice that potentiometer codes can’t tell you exactly when the guitar was produced but a rough estimate. The pots codes on Gibson guitars are generally a lot more tricky to read compared to Fender, since the pots are placed inside the control cavity on solid body models such as the Les Paul, SG etc and inside the body on a hollow-body guitar.
Potentiometers feature a 6 or 7 digit code that indicates which manufacturer that produced the potentiometer as well as the last two digits of the year and the week of the year like this ‘MAN-YY-WW’ or this ‘MAN-Y-WW’. (MAN = Manufacturer code, YY = last 2 digits of the year fx “67” = 1967, WW = Week of the year).
Let’s do a quick example with the following pot code: “137-6514”. The first three digits are the manufacturer code, in this case “137” is the manufacturer code for the CTS. The two digits in the middle are the last two digits of the year, in this case 65 indicating 1965. The last two digits are the week of the year in this case 14 is the 14th week of 1965.
Manufacturer codes:
Chicago Telephone Supply ( CTS ) = 137
Stackpole: 304
Centralab: 013
Using the specifications to date your vintage Gibson guitar
Looking at specific features and specifications on your vintage Gibson guitar is often a much more accurate method for dating a vintage Gibson guitar rather than just relying on the serial number. While serial numbers can provide a general range, Gibson has gone through numerous changes over the years and sometimes reused serial numbers more than once (as mentioned above).
By closely examining key specifications—such as the style and font of the headstock logo, the nut width, the type of tuners used, neck profile shapes, the hardware materials, fretboard inlays, body wood types, pickup models, and bridge types—you can often narrow down the production year to a very specific window. Therefore, you can align all the information alongside the potentiometer dates and serial number and gather a more adequate answer on when your Gibson was built.
Nut Width
In 1965, Gibson began transitioning the nut width on many of its guitars from 1 11/16″ (approximately 42.86 mm) to the narrower 1 9/16″ (approximately 39.69 mm).
This change didn’t happen overnight—it rolled out gradually throughout the year. As a result, many 1965 models still feature the wider 1 11/16″ nut, while others, especially from later in the year, have the narrower width.
Neck “Volute”
Another important change introduced in late 1969 was the addition of the neck volute—a small triangular reinforcement where the neck meets the headstock.
This was intended to reduce the risk of headstock breaks, a common issue with Gibson guitars due to their angled headstock design.
Again, this change didn’t happen overnight—it rolled out gradually throughout late 1969 and 1970. As a result, you can find some 1970 models without a neck volute.

Example of the neck volute.
“Pancake” Body
From 1969 and up until 1976/1977 Gibson produced the so-called “Pancake” bodies on their Les Paul models. The term describes the multi-piece body construction containing of thin maple layer sandwiched between two mahogany pieces. This was introduced during the Norlin years to reduce costs and increase stability, but many players criticized it for changing the tone and feel.
3-Piece Neck
In 1969, Gibson introduced the 3-piece neck to cut costs and improve stability, but many players criticized it for altering the tone and feel. The transition wasn’t immediate—it rolled out gradually that year. As a result, many 1969 models still feature 1-piece necks, but you’ll never find a 1968 with a 3-piece neck; they simply didn’t exist before 1969.
Knobs style
Clear Tall Knobs: In the 1940s, as electric guitars began to take form, Gibson introduced clear tall knobs on early models such as the ES-300. These knobs were made from transparent plastic and featured internal numbering, often in gold or silver.
Over time, many of these aged to a warm amber hue due to UV exposure, giving vintage instruments their distinctive, timeworn charm.
Tall “Barrel” knobs: By the early 1950s, Gibson transitioned to what are commonly referred to as tall “barrel” knobs, used between 1950 and 1952 on instruments like the early Les Paul Goldtops.
These knobs, sometimes also called “bonnet knobs,” flared gently at the base and retained the clear plastic look. They were usually a transparent amber color, with gold numbering. These too would often yellow slightly with age, enhancing their vintage appeal.

Example of Tall “Barrel” knobs
Speed knobs: In 1953, Gibson introduced the now-famous speed knobs.
Unlike the taller knobs of the previous era, speed knobs were short, smooth, and easy to grip—designed to allow for quick volume and tone changes during performance.
They were initially produced in transparent amber for guitars like the Les Paul Standard, but soon became available in black with white numbering, which became a staple for models like the Les Paul Custom.

Example of speed knobs
Top hat knobs / Bell knobs: In 1955, Gibson introduced what became known as top hat knobs, also referred to as “bell” knobs. These knobs had a taller profile with a narrow central body and a flat, brim-like skirt at the base. While they shared some functional similarities with speed knobs, top hats had a more refined look and were commonly found on models like the Les Paul Standard and ES-335.
Color options typically included black or amber plastic with white numbers, and in some cases, gold variants were produced to complement Goldtop finishes. They were discontinued in mid-1960.

Example of black Top hat knobs / Bell knobs

Example of gold Top hat knobs / Bell knobs
Reflector knobs: Introduced in 1960, Gibson introduced reflector knobs, which built upon the top hat design but added a metal cap on top. These caps were often labeled “VOLUME” or “TONE” in contrasting text, serving both decorative and functional purposes. Reflector knobs came in both black and amber plastic bases, with silver or gold reflector tops, depending on the model and year.
Even though the witch hat knobs began to appear during 1966, the reflector knobs were still very much in use during the late 60’s, and even featured in the 70’s on some special models such as the Les Paul Custom.

Example of gold reflector knobs

Example of black reflector knobs
Witch Hat knobs: By 1966, Gibson introduced the witch hat knobs. These knobs were taller with a dramatically flared skirt, resembling the shape of a witch’s hat—hence the nickname.
They became a hallmark of many SGs, Les Paul Deluxes, and ES-series guitars. Most common finish was in black with either silver or gold caps.
70’s Speed Knobs: By 1974, Gibson re-introduced the speed knobs on some models such as the Les Paul Standard, Les Paul Custom and SG Custom.
These reissued speed knobs were not identical to the ones used in the early 50’s – they had flatter tops and were shorter. These came both in black and amber with white numbering.

Example of black witch hat knobs.
Hardware Material
In 1965, Gibson began switching the hardware of their guitars from nickel to chrome. As with other production changes, this transition wasn’t immediate — they didn’t discard all nickel parts on January 1st. As a result, many 1965 Gibson guitars feature either all-nickel hardware or a mix of nickel and chrome.
Bridge History
Trapeze Tailpiece: This style of combined tailpiece and bridge system was used on the first Les Paul models in 1952 and into 1953. It was also used on other models such as the ES-225 and the ES-295 until 1958.
Non-Compensated Wrap-Around Bridge/Tailpiece: This style of combined tailpiece and bridge was used on solid-body models such as the Les Paul Standard from 1953 until 1955 and the Les Paul Junior and Special from 1954 and up until 1961 when the Les Paul models were discontinued.
Compensated Wrap-Around Bridge/Tailpiece: By 1961, Gibson changed the design from the even non-compensated tailpiece to the compensated “stairstep” tailpiece.
ABR-1 (No Wire) – Tune-o-matic bridge & stop-bar tailpiece: This first appeared in 1953 on the Les Paul Custom model and 1955 on the Les Paul Standard. Stamped with “ABR-1” underneath. The ABR-1 was the first Gibson bridge with individually adjustable saddles for each string.
ABR-1 (With Wire) – Tune-o-matic bridge & stop-bar tailpiece: In 1962, Gibson added a wire to prevent the saddles from falling out of place when changing strings. Still stamped with “ABR-1” underneath.
ABR-1 (With Wire) – Tune-o-matic bridge & stop-bar tailpiece with nylon saddles: In 1963, Gibson introduced a new ABR-1 bridge that now featured nylon saddles instead of nickel saddles.
Compensated Wood bridge: On many hollow-body and archtop guitars, Gibson used a compensated bridge made of rosewood.
Headstock Shape
The shape of the Gibson headstock has evolved over the decades, reflecting both functional changes and brand identity. Early Gibson headstocks from the early 1900s featured a simple, narrow design often with a “snakehead” profile, particularly on mandolins and early guitars. By the 1930s, the now-iconic “open book” or “moustache” shape emerged, becoming a hallmark of models like the Les Paul and SG. This curvy, symmetrical design helped reinforce Gibson’s brand image and distinguished its instruments from competitors.
In the 1960s and ’70s, subtle variations appeared—such as a slightly narrower or more pointed shape—often driven by production changes or different model lines. More dramatic shifts came in the Norlin era (late ’60s to mid-’80s), when headstocks became larger and heavier, sometimes leading to balance and breakage issues. Later, Gibson returned to more traditional shapes, reinforcing vintage appeal and structural integrity. Today, the classic open-book silhouette remains a central element of Gibson’s identity, though reissues and modern lines may include slight stylistic tweaks.
Maple Neck
Between 1975 and 1979, Gibson switched from using mahogany to maple for many of their guitar necks. This change was driven by a decline in the availability and quality of Honduran mahogany during that period.
Maple was more abundant, especially in North America, and offered greater strength and stability, but also gave the guitars a more bright tone.
The maple necks were made of 3 pieces of maple, just like the mahogany necks before.
In 1980, Gibson began returning to mahogany necks as better-quality supplies became available and demand for the classic Gibson tone remained strong.
Highlights – The most desirable vintage Gibson guitars we’ve had through Guitar Hunter
We want to highlight some exceptional historical pieces and some of the most desirable vintage Gibson guitars ever build that we have had through our shop. Take a look below: